Sunday, October 24, 2010

The Big Dipper is leaking and the Moon is a Ghost

The Big Dipper is leaking.


Stepped out early one morning last week, well before dawn, with Nutmeg. Looked up at the still-dark sky filled with brilliant stars just in time to see a streak escaping the lip of the Big Dipper constellation. A shooting star! Just a couple of weeks ago I saw two shooting stars in one evening while sitting at an outdoor presentation on the universe and space. Now that the humidity and haze of the monsoons are relieved by the arrival of fall, the skies are crystal again. The Milky Way is again stretched across the heaven as though it’s replacing the earth-bound rivers that have dried in their beds until the next monsoon season.

The presentation was offered by an astronomer named Gary Emerson. Gary is now an amateur astronomer. Amateur only because he’s no longer paid for his passion. His particular passions have included designing the imaging technologies on satellites such as Magellan, Galileo, Voyager and, most recently, the Hubble Telescope. Can you imagine sitting in the dark and watching images projected against a stucco wall, taking you right up into the stars, riding on the wing of a satellite with one of the people who made the images possible! Looking up at the stars on his direction and seeing streaks of light making exclamation marks.

The ghost moon is setting.
This morning, the full moon was a dawn ghost, appearing on the horizon at 8 am large as a silver dollar sitting on edge and glowing with reflected light.

A fitting start for a day trip to the ghost town of Mogollon (pronounced Muggy-yown) up in the Gila National Forest. The town is an old mining town that is said to be the “ghost town that won’t die.” While many of the buildings have indeed been left to the miners’ ghosts, there is a solid core of fleshandblood people who live there year round and who have taken pains to build lives and livings, and to stabilize and preserve the town. Among the old wooden and stone structures are a general store, a theater, a church, several old houses and outbuildings, old stone buildings with filmy windows and fading painted signs and an old gasoline pump surrounded by cars that must have died waiting for a gasoline delivery. Among the living structures are the Purple Onion Café, an antiques and collectibles business, an art gallery and the Cemetery’s archive. Here are my flikr images from Mogollon.

The day was blue and gold, cool and crisp – a perfect fall day. We drove out through the Gila valley, crossing the Gila River at several points. This was the landscape that was verdantly green just weeks ago and full of wild sunflowers and other summer blooms. Now the fall has burnished the hillsides into shades of bronze and copper, yet still spangled with scatters of yellow flowers. To reach the town of Mogollon, we climbed 2,000 feet in elevation and then dropped vertically almost that far into a deep, narrow canyon to find the town, ghost and living, spread along Silver Creek. The road is not for the faint of heart or stomach. It is as wide as a king bed and has no guard rails. We were assured by one resident that in the 35 years she’s lived in Mogollon, they’ve never had to call an ambulance for an accident. Going back upthendown snake curves, blindly trusting that everyone who was coming to Mogollon today was already there and not heading uphill to meet me on the next hairpin, I thought they wouldn’t need an ambulance – any old hearse would do if I went over the edge!

We were lucky. Today was their last day open for the season. The next big cloud could bring them snow. The living will be bringing in wood and wrapping windows soon. Who knows what the ghosts do to prepare for winter.

By the way, it dawned on me (pun intended) the morning I saw my third shooting star in two weeks: Chicken Little was right. The sky does fall – one star at a time. Chicken was just a little too literal.

Friday, October 8, 2010

Summer into Fall in the blink of an eye -- Part 3

Late summer and early fall have brought some interesting critters of the 4 legged and winged variety to the neighborhood. Just tonight, turning off the street to start down our driveway, my headlight caught what at first appeared to be the neighbor’s cat. Nooo, their cat is yellow and this animal appeared no-color in the glare of my light. Ears too tall and pointy. Tail too long and bushy. Moves oddly for a cat. I stopped the car and the animal, in the act of running the other way, also stopped and turned to look. After a quick pause, it started back to the direction I suspect it was headed as I started my turn – right down my driveway and into the weeds. Now I could see – a small gray fox.


Another denizen of the dusk was surprised by Nutmeg while on a walk with Nick a couple of weeks ago. I was in DC and talking to Nick on the phone as he walked her, and heard, “No Nutmeg. Get back. GetbackgetbackaghhhhhNUTMEG!” This followed by, “Oh sh__, it got her…NUTMEGaghhhh.” Then the next – and last – thing I heard that night was – “What is it I’m supposed to wash her with? Vinegar? Baking soda? What?” No having to guess what she found in the weeds by the culvert. A cat of a different stripe! I came home a day later to find my skunked dog quarantined in the garage. Nick had gotten as much off as he could but she still had that unmistakable fragrance.

And still another cat story. It was a few weeks ago now that I encountered one of our neighbors on my morning walk with Nutmeg. She had had a harrowing night. A deer was taken just outside their bedroom window. I never thought deer made noise. But in extremis, I guess they can be vocal. She told me that they woke up to the cries of the deer, cries that stopped abruptly. They continued to hear some shuffling and other noise, but no further sounds of distress. The next morning, they found the deer – or what was left of her. From the remains, their assumption was that a big cat took her. They thought this was probably the doe that had just birthed a fawn, but had not done well in the birthing. They had seen her refuse the fawn’s attempts to nurse. And the doe wasn’t moving normally. So she was quick prey to a hungry cat. We have so many deer in this neighborhood (well, you’ve heard my rants before) that at hunting season and birthing season, the predators are naturally drawn to the catchable prey. Not many days later, I noticed that the vultures that had been attracted to that doe were now soaring, perching and hovering over the arroyo that runs alongside our house. It wasn’t long before any doubt was removed upon crossing downwind.

On a rather amusing note, though. Nutmeg HATES big black birds! Just let a raven pass close enough to the ground to cast a shadow and Nutmeg will look up and bark and jump, as though somehow she believes either she’s going to put the fear of Dog in that raven or she’s going to snatch that bird right off the wing. With the number of vultures inhabiting the neighborhood recently, soaring and drifting, it was bound to happen that a vulture and Nutmeg would cross paths. Again on a morning walk, the vulture was drifting slightly behind us as we climbed a hill, putting the bird 10 feet off the ground but downhill, so effectively at eye level. Definitely checking us out. Were we still moving? Vigorously? Any possibility….? Nutmeg turned suddenly and lunged at the bird. Silently. Not barking. When a dog goes off without making a sound, that dog is serious. She was dead serious. Well, not dead, or the vulture would have hung around. But serious enough that the vulture sort of flipped her off with a wing finger and peeled out for more appetizing quarry.

Now, a final cat story. Nick hurt his back at work one Friday. Pulled it badly or pinched a nerve while moving a box at work. He was in a lot of pain that night and so we were both awake about 2 am. The windows were open in the warm weather. Suddenly, a huffing, gruffing noise outside the window—very close by. I sat up. “What was that?!” I had had one ear buried in the pillow so was slightly hearing-handicapped. Nick, already sitting straight up and alert when the noise occurred, said, “Mountain lion! I think…no. Yeah, that’s what it sounded like.” I could hear every outside dog in the neighborhood suddenly start to bay, howl and otherwise make wake-the-dead racket. Except Nutmeg. She was sitting up with her neck stretched as far as it could go, and then a little farther. Her ears were peaked and twitching. But not a sound. In fact, she had stopped breathing momentarily, the better to hear. We said, nah, couldn’t be. But yeah, it could, because it was only last week… What clinched it was when a friend told a story the following Sunday about camping up in the forest, having a mountain lion come up to his truck and huff-growl at him, annoyed that he was in her territory. He mimicked the cat and my jaw dropped. Exactly! I’m not venturing beyond the back porch light until season is over and those cats have retired up the hill to their more natural habitat.

Far more benignly, the fall migrants have almost all moved through and on. For several days, I watched a small flock of warblers work the seed heads on the grasses and weeds outside my office window. A bird would light on the top of the grass stalk. My first reaction was that the dumb bird didn’t realize the stalk was too thin to support it. I was soon struck dumb watching as the bird rode the stalk to the ground, fluttered its wings to shake the stalk and then hopped off. The stalk bounced back, leaving behind its harvest of seeds, upon which the bird jumped with alacrity. This happened over and over as the small flock took in the harvest before moving on. And the bluebirds are back for the winter, gathering in gossipy groups on the power lines.

It appears I got carried away with critter tales and didn’t leave time to finish Part 3. So, Part 4 – Comus Rd is sold and Rocky Creek is on the verge. We are in the process of selecting the builder – at least I hope so. Have to negotiate a price we can afford. Hope to break ground by Thanksgiving. So stay tuned.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Summer into Fall in the blink of an eye -- Part 2

Chile harvest isn’t the only harvest that’s been abundant.

This summer, we bought a share in a CSA – Community Supported Agriculture – called Frisco Farms. We bought in with 3 other couples, so that every other week, we split the take with one couple and the opposite weeks, the other two couples split. Interesting to see what goodies were included from week to week: stuff I love like earth-fresh carrots and sweet lettuce and then stuff, well, let’s just say the other couple got more than their share of the beets, turnips and rutabagas. As the summer progressed and the bounty grew, I found myself picking up our share, and then shopping for more. Until finally, I had to buy a second market basket. And we didn’t throw a leaf or a stem away!

El Niño continues to play out.

The monsoons started pretty much on time. We got rain, and more rain, and then more rain. For variety, we got hail, winds and flash floods. In the desert Southwest, you never complain about the rain. But the humidity! And, OMG, the mosquitoes!!! There’s been drought here for the last several years, but between the heavy and lasting snows of the El Niño winter of 2009-2010 and the heavy and soaking rains of this summer, I think we’ve probably caught up a bit.

The rains have greened the landscape. Even the driest, brownest, barest land has been brushed with green. The hillsides have been soft and lush and the meadows and fields, verdant. A friend of my friend says it’s just like the East Coast – rather “garishly green” says he. More than green, though. The wildflowers – the year’s second coming of wildflowers – have embodied the state’s emblem: Zia. Zia is sun, and the sun has bloomed yellow everywhere you look. Imagine entire fields – acres full of sunflowers. Not the large sunflowers from which you might harvest seeds, but sunflowers with blossoms about the diameter of a tennis ball. Fields and meadows and roadsides and pastures and gardens – all ablaze with brilliant yellow sunflowers grown head-high. To give depth to the sunflowers, imagine ground cover spreading yellow butter inches high and still another yellow of pure gold winding around the sunflowers’ knees. And now imagine the yellow spiced with orange globemallow, brilliant salmon and red Indian paintbrush, blue and purple and pink penstemmons and other colors topping plants I have yet to learn. Now, though, Fall has begun its inevitable change. One day the landscape reflected the sun and the next, the grasses are seeding, giving hillsides a tan complexion and the cottonwoods are minting their own gold leaves. It’s still raining, though. It’s October, and most days, the skies are turquoise and the cumulus is billowing white. But every few days, those clouds turn black and serious and the rain pours for an hour or so.

San Diego for Labor Day

On Labor Day weekend, we left Nutmeg with a trusted house and dog sitter and headed for San Diego to visit Ami and Bob, aka daughter and son-in-law. They recently bought a somewhat down-at-the-heels house through a foreclosure – is there any other way to buy, these days? We saw it when they just bought and before they restored and could see its terrific potential. It had “good bones.” Now, they’ve mostly completed the work and their little 1920’s California bungalow is a knock-out. Combines a sweet sense of origins with a good dose of personal taste. Took them a little pottery from a local artist as an anniversary gift and, what else?, some fresh green chiles!

I’ve visited my daughter in San Diego a number of times over the years; she has, after all, lived there fully one half of her life and, dare I say, one-third of mine! But we’ve never done the “tourist thing.” We usually go birding at the refuges or the lagoon, or walk the sidewalks of La Jolla and look at the seals (or sea lions, Ami?). But this year, we took in the harbor along with hordes of camera-toting tourists. The tall ships were in port so we toured a couple of those and then we took the full 2 hour harbor tour that cruised the Navy yards and out by the point where the sea lions (or seals?) haul out, and at this time of year, have their babies. I loved the juxtaposition of the canvas sails against the high-tech military sails. Was fascinated by the variety of military ships to be seen. Every ship had a story and the captain, a former Navy ship’s captain himself, knew most of them. Went to the zoo at night where the only critters stirring were a lazy polar bear, an arctic fox in summer dress and the lions. Went to a Labor Day party at which the main course of marinated steak disappeared from beside the grill, which lead all the guests to speculate on the nerve of uninvited neighbors to sneak in and steal the beef. Platters of uncooked dinner later showed up stowed in the bottom of the fridge, covered with foil, but no-one could remember putting them there. The grill was still hot and the guests still hungry, so we had rare steak for dessert.

Oh, and I was definitely one of those hordes of camera-toting tourists. Here’s what I saw on my summer vacation…

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Summer to Fall in the blink of an eye—Part 1

It can’t have been six weeks! If I was able to write while walking the dog, I’d be prolific. That’s when I imagine all kinds of stories – all the details of life in Silver City. Getting my imagination practically translated to electrons is the challenge. So here, in 3 parts, is a summation of the end of summer and harbingers of fall.


Chile season at last

We waited anxiously. We had long used up last year’s harvest in the freezer. The season started late because of the cool spring and the abundant rains. We checked the internet for news of ripening in Hatch, NM. The Chile Festival was coming on Labor Day but we would be headed west, missing the Hatch-wide roasting. Bags of green chiles started showing up in Albertsons, but who knew where they were from; local, probably, but still. When roasters began to show up on the parking lots of the Co-op and Albertsons, and the air began to take on that slightly burnt, slightly spicy smell, it was time. A friend mentioned Diaz Farms down in Deming—they would have chiles; they are a big farm operation with a road-side market. Think Butlers Orchard if you’re reading this in MD. So off we went on a Saturday afternoon.

Chiles piled high on tables and more in burlap bags on the floors. Sorted by heat: mild, medium, hot, extra hot. We’re still novices, so mild still our choice. A half-bag is about 20 lbs fresh, and roasts down to fill two plastic grocery bags. And they roasted the pods while we watched. (more pics on Flikr) Fragranced up the car on the way home. I spent the evening laying the chiles out on cookie sheets for the freezer. Next day, I bagged the now-individually-frozen chiles.

The next weekend, worried that the 20 pre-cooked lbs wouldn’t last until next season – after all, the half-bag Nick bought last year didn’t make it to harvest this year – I went to the local FFA chile roast in the lot across from WalMart and bought another 10 lbs. FFA? That’s Future Farmers of America. Now our freezer is stuffed. We should be good for the year.

On the Gila up at Forks

Late August, I took one of my occasional one-day mini vacations and went with 3 friends up to a spot on the Gila called Forks, a Forest Service primitive campground and day-use area. Named so, I think, because it’s approximately where the middle and south forks of the Gila come together. If I’m remembering incorrectly, one of my SC friends will have to help me out. It’s just a few miles shy of the Gila Cliff Dwellings. It’s also not far from the assumed birthplace of Geronimo. It’s a lovely drive through the Forest. At this point in August, there were wildflowers everywhere: lining the road, in the meadows, down the hillsides and hiding in the grasses.

There, the river is gorgeous. There are towering cliffs on one side of the river. The other side is riparian riverbank, so there are camping spots and river-side beaches. We spread blankets, pulled out the coolers, books, cameras and binoculars, and settled down for a day on the river. Restful, good company and glorious weather. See for yourself…